Annealing Assistance

johno1 · Post by **johno1** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 1:25 pm

Could someone experienced in annealing do some cases for my 17/5.7 johnson. I'm told 650* for about 3 seconds

Thanks
Johno

stinkitup · Post by **stinkitup** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 7:20 am

Johno my Annealing has been for forming the big martini 577/450 from 20 gauge brass shells but technically the same. I do them in a dimly lit room not dark spin them in a socket with the drill. When they turn dark I generally dunk them, don't want them cherry red and so far they seem to be pretty good. Have to anneal them at least twice while forming these buggers. Once you have done a few you can count it out and they are all very close.

Ryan

Con · Post by **Con** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 10:26 am

Johno,
Laugh all you like ... but hold them in your fingers from the base, rotate in a candle flame, when it gets uncomfortably hot into a damp cloth to wipe the soot off and stop the heat migration. Its slow, but it works ... do all my once-fired 204 brass before opening to 22cal.
Cheers...
Con

stinkitup · Post by **stinkitup** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 11:07 am

I tried that with my 577 but was not enough

I am sizing from 577 to 450 though

Ryan

Con · Post by **Con** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 11:49 am

stinkitup wrote:I tried that with my 577 but was not enough I am sizing from 577 to 450 though

Ryan

Yep ... you'd fall asleep waiting for them to heat up.

I've done 223Rem, 204Ruger and 308Win ... bigger stuff I'd use a torch and stop the moment you see a bit of colour come into the shoulder.

But ... you have to sacrifice a few shells to get it right ... bet you Johno doesn't want any brass 'sacrificed'.

Cheers...
Con

johno1 · Post by **johno1** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 12:46 pm

The problem with that method mate is it does'nt take into consideration the hardness of the operator. See i'd end up with 3rd degree burns, whilst you were still lighting the candle

I got a little butane torch here might give that a go. If I could find 650* templiq liquid that would solve a lot of problems

Johno

stinkitup · Post by **stinkitup** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 1:09 pm

That's what I use, I found a spark plug socket set with 3 sizes the big one suites the 577 stuff perfect, and the smaller ones the smaller cases. I stuffed some dowl in them and spin it with the cordless. IF you want you can send em up and I will have a go. basically start of in a darkish room and give it a whirl do them for less than you think even, you can always retry.

Ryan

Con · Post by **Con** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 2:37 pm

johno1 wrote:The problem with that method mate is it does'nt take into consideration the hardness of the operator. See i'd end up with 3rd degree burns, whilst you were still lighting the candle

Oh don't worry ... I lose all feel after about the 3rd case.

You wont hold them to anything approaching 100deg C either so don't stress. I don't get as distinct an anneal mark as when using a torch, but I never wreck cases using the candle either. One US bloke I correspond with used the candle after every 3rd shot and moderate loadings (not max, but not min either) in his rifles. 223Rem cases were still trucking at 100 shots per case, 22/250 were still hanging in at 50 shots per case.
Cheers...
Con

220 · Post by **220** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 4:47 pm

johno1 wrote:I got a little butane torch here might give that a go. If I could find 650* templiq liquid that would solve a lot of problems

Have you tried any of the engineering suppliers, places like blackwoods etc all list it although I doubt to many of the outlets would have it in stock.

johno1 · Post by **johno1** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 5:28 pm

Sort of a bugger of a spot Orbost, will try Bairnsdale

Johno

stinkitup · Post by **stinkitup** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 1:18 pm

IF your going the butane method what shell holder have you got? What is the case head size and I'll check my spark plug socket set ..... I mean my annealing kit

And send one down if you like. Prob suit the one similar for my 222 rimmed.

Ryan

trevort · Post by **trevort** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 7:10 pm

Johno I would be happy to do some for you but no way of measuring the heat. My method is basic and since I am a klutz, I have no way of judging its effectiveness. I'm happy with my results but more discerning shooters might not be

Camel · Post by **Camel** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 8:35 pm

Johnno, when I got my 5.7 off old mate in Hay, he told me to anneal them by holding in gas flame with my fingers, reckons there is no way you can get them too hot and over do the job. Guess what ? He is right, there is no way possible to hold short cases like these until they get over annealed. Got the shiny spots that used to be fingerprints to proove it.

2208mate · Post by **2208mate** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 8:48 pm

Templac is available here at almost 2x USA price http://www.shooters.com.au/search.asp?s ... s&c=204118
..Initially using the T'lac gives you the experience before freestyling......
So what price experience, $30?... did it for me hehe.

johno1 · Post by **johno1** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:59 pm

Ive got a 650* tempilstik, problem is getting to mark the smooth surface of the case. Ive asked the experts over on saubier, I know they will say its a waste of time.

Regarding tempilaq, got a quote of $45.00 2 ozs bottle, $14.00 freight & 3-4 week wait. Its a 30 carbine case mate, I can work a shell holder so will give it a go. Because ive got to reduce from 30cal to 17 and shave a heap of brass at the neck, they will have to be annealed. In fact should have been before I got down to 17cal. If I can work the annealing I will use 19 badger brass and anneal at 19cal

Johno

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