Parker Hale M98 bolt issues

[Vermingone]

Folks I'm chasing a firing pin and spring for my .243 bolt.
Any ideas I'm here in W.A.

No names but after sending the rifle off to be rebarrelled it has come back with a misfire 10 out of the 50 running in shots.
I don't wish to deal with that gunsmith again. I believe that the truth was not forthcoming.

I am experiencing a light primer strike and after a closer inspection it appears that the firing pin was worn and has been modified to the point where I have the current issue.

When in the fired position it protrudes approx 1 mm producing a light non firing strike but if pressure is applied to the rear of the bolt it protrudes about what would be a reasonable distance out to strike the primer sufficiently imo.

[Branxhunter]

Verm, I'm still yet to get home and take my PH bolt apart and have a look at it for you.

Before my current PH 1100 I had an older PH Super Safari which had similar light striking issues. It turned out to be that the cocking piece was not properly seated on the end of the bolt, and required a little more clockwise rotation to get enough firing pin protrusion (0.06 - 0.08").

I know some blokes on another forum who are very knowledgable about PHs/mausers, so if the above doesn't fix it let me know and I will copy/paste your post over there and see what suggestions they may have.

Marcus

[Vermingone]

Thanks Marcus no problem I understand .
The cocking piece is screwed all the way in to the stopper. I've had it apart to inspect it and I think that the bolt is just worn with age.

[Camel]

Sspose I shouldn't ask, but have you cleaned in the bolt body, lotsa shit gets caught up between the back of the bolt face and the front of the firing pin stopper, and can stop the pin from going all the way in. This was the most cleaned part of my rifle when I was working.

[justjeff]

Concur Camel,

Had a similar issue when I bought my 6BR off TZ. He never had a misfire, soon as I bought it, it wouldn't work. Pulled the bolt apart, cleaned it, and not a misfire since. Omark/Sportco 44.

Jeff

[morerams]

If you think the Gunsmith is dodgy, it may be a good idea to have the headspace checked if the rifle wasn't misfiring before the rebarrrel job.

[Guest]

Camel JustJeff yes I've closely inspected and cleaned the bolt/firing pin. Where the pin stops inside the bolt at the end of its travel is tapered. You can actually see inside it with a torch through a port shaped in the bolt from manufacture. There doesn't appear to be anything dirty or blocking the travel to the resting point.

Morerams I reckon the head spacing is ok as there is no head separation or marks that would suggest additional stretching of the case.
Or are you saying that a headspacing issue would cause misfires and not necessarily be noticeable immediately ?

[Vermingone]

Camel JustJeff yes I've closely inspected and cleaned the bolt/firing pin. Where the pin stops inside the bolt at the end of its travel is tapered. You can actually see inside it with a torch through a port shaped in the bolt from manufacture. There doesn't appear to be anything dirty or blocking the travel to the resting point.

Morerams I reckon the head spacing is ok as there is no head separation or marks that would suggest additional stretching of the case.
Or are you saying that a headspacing issue would cause misfires and not necessarily be noticeable immediately ?

[morerams]

If the rifle was not misfiring before and it is now, and you are saying the firing pin strike appears light, then excess headspace may be a cause of the misfiring. Bolts and parts like the firing pin don't wear much and the 98 Mauser is a reliable design.

[Camel]

My understanding with regard to the headspace issue is the pin strikes the primer, then because there is nothing holding the case to the rear against the bolt face, the case is driven forward in the chamber until it hits the shoulder in the chamber then stops and ignition takes place. The case walls then expand and while the pressure is up there, because the case head is not supported by the bolt face, the head moves to the rear until it is stopped by the bolt face. This is where the case lengthens just in front of the web, and causes your cases to lengthen and separate, either partially, or completely in extreme cases.

Your smith would have had to either ream the chamber out, or not tighten the barrel up tightly, to cause this to happen. It would not happen unless either of these two things have taken place, headspace just doesn't happen at the will of the gods. Maybe he drove the reamer in a tad too far. I don't think there would be any reason for your smith to have taken the bolt apart, unless there was some reason you wanted him to.

If after the re-barrel job, the headspace is the issue, it could also be a case of a new reamer cutting an over size chamber and smaller brass. You could try necking your brass down so there is a false shoulder at the base of the neck, a bulge so to speak, so when you chamber your cartridge there is a very positive feel when closing the bolt, this will hold the case at the rear. Then again, being a Mauser and controlled round feed, the extractor claw should hold the head of the case against the bolt, I think this is one of the things that went into the designing of the Mauser action.

A misfire or light firing pin strike is a totally different kettle of fish, this could be caused by numerous things, most of which have been raised. One that has not is the firing pin spring, could this have been compressed or could it have lost its temper in some way ? Heat would be the big choice here.

I doubt a new bolt would solve your problems, as to the spring, it may help, you could Google Harrys Mausers, I believe he has an inventory of many parts for all types of M98 actions and rifles. I believe he is based in Brisbane.

I hope you find the answer to your problems.

[Vermingone]

Thanks Camel me too.

[morerams]

1mm is on the short side of firing pin protrusion, but you need an accurate measurement, it should be close to 1.3mm or 50 to 55 thousandths of an inch.

[Vermingone]

Ok I'll measure it thanks.

[WARDY91]

Vermingone try jamming the next lot of rounds of you plan to shoot. That will give an indication of the brass is undersized or the chamber is a bee's dick too deep. .004" is the difference between a go and no go gauge. I had the same issue with a brand new custom rifle and brand new brass. The chamber was spot on. The bras was .003-.005" short so jamming on the first firing has sorted that out.

The bolt more than likely would have been dis assembled to allow the feel on headspace gauges without the spring interfering.

[Vermingone]

Just a quick follow up for those interested.
Took the firearm to a different gunsmith and the verdict was a worn firing pin. And when side by side with the original there was a noticeable difference.
Test firing on my next available day off now.
Thanks AV contributors for the info.